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My group played through the whole thing with side content and it took us like 6 months averaging maybe thee four-hour hour play sessions per month. My buddies and I had been meaning to try a game for years and the pandemic gave us the perfect opportunity by using Roll 20. Like I can play this weekend, but I have to play at a white supremicist my brother in law know’s house. I’ve wanted to play since I was 12 but the only people I’ve met in person who play either didn’t like me or I couldn’t stand them. Or we lived too far apart to make it realistically happen. 5E seems to be really easy to learn and beginner friendly.

Not because it doesn’t work but because beginners often use it to “hide problems” that are a result of poor maintenance . There is a tendency to rely on purigen instead of good tank practices, which generally eliminates the need for it altogether. Not only that but the stuff smells disgusting and, although it can be reused to a point, it’s still an ongoing cost. I see purigen as an emergency solution rather than an ongoing tank addition. Ceramic rings and good quality sponge can last years before needing to be replace. A good sponge should be able to be cleaned with three squeezes in siphoned tank water.

(the Betta is my son’s, and I’m leaving that to him now). I looked at the spreadsheet and the nitrates actually went up from 1 to 5 the day before my water change. I was thinking of putting baking soda in the empty 10 gallon tank to try to raise the PH in hopes of moving the cycling along faster. The reason people add up to 4 ppm of ammonia is because this allows the beneficial bacteria to process up to this amount in a 24 hour period . This means that when you add your fish, assuming you have stocked your tank correctly, the beneficial bacteria should be able to accommodate the amount of waste your fish produce.

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While you could wait it out for 2 months and “assume” it’s cycled, it’s going to be tricky to see how it’s progressing otherwise. Not by choice unfortunately, but you are doing a great job playing mother to your fish, that’s for sure. I bought the Aqueon LED 20 Gallon Aquarium Kit. They system also says that you have to have the filters facing the front, which i made sure to do.

Unfortunately, there is no guarentee that your fish will survivie. I’m a little disappointed to hear that Maiden Head Aquatics tested your water then gave you a test kit without informing you it wouldn’t read such an extreme level of nitrate. The problem is I live in Kuwait and i couldn’t find pure ammonia and CBD Drinks master test kit. Hey there, turns out my kh was low – less than 40ppm. I dosed the tank with alkaline buffer and now it’s closer to 100ppm and the ph has been much more stable and higher, around 7.3 for the past few days. If it were me, I’d only add a couple if it’s not a big gap between when you leave.

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Because of this, You won’t need to test your oxygen levels, they will be fine. The only time you might need to test your oxygen levels is if you overstock your tank but this won’t be an issue for you. Yes, the lighting was the issue for testing I actually change the bulb above the tank to white light and read all tests in the same place next to the window. But besides that, based on what you have written, nothing seems out of the ordinary. You just have some more waiting to do, as nitrites appear within the first two weeks.

Or re-dose to 4 right now, it makes little difference. You just want to make sure there is ammonia for the first bacteria to feast on. As for the cause of the film, I cannot be sure but it could be my hand or the pump. But, I am also thinking that from time to time I light a candle on the same table and the residual burn off might be settling on the water??? There is no fish or reason for food in the tank.

I’ve been using this test kit for years without issue as have thousands of others. All cases I have personally been involved in where the tests didn’t work came down to user error. Just to confirm, are you reading your test kit in natural day light? The lighting from indoor lights can drastically throw off the readings. If not, go outside in the middle of the day when you test to compare your results. My apologies here, I assumed you were adding ammonia.

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For this reason, you should run base tests on your water before adding it to your tank, so that you know if the appearance of nitrate is due to the tank cycling or whether it was there from the start. If you have nitrates, then it’s possible that the bacteria that converts nitrites to nitrates has established enough that it is eating the ammonia fast enough that it reads zero. I have my fingers crossed that this is the outcome. Unfortunately, it will take a few days of waiting before you will know for sure.

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There may be some problems with the initial beneficial bacteria appearing for whatever reason, this may help boost it. I did a water change 6 days ago when I moved the babies out of that tank. I’ll do another tomorrow and let you know the nitrate readings. I’ve never tested my tapwater for nitrates but I’ll do that tomorrow too. To address your side note, I found one other family with a tank in my town but it ended up not being much help as they don’t test their water (so I guess they did an fish-in cycle).

Most of the beneficial bacteria live in your filter and as long as they have constant water flow across them, it won’t impact the cycle. Although, ideally, since you have started the cycle, it would make it easier if you wait until the end – you will be less likely to make a mistake and need to start over. Not saying you will, but there is always that possibility.

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Additionally, the local fish store is on city water and just said to use the instant cycle products. We generally try to “build” more beneficial bacteria than is needed during the cycling process. Once the fish is introduced, the bacteria “dies back” to a level that can be supported by the waste of your fish – since there are only so much ammonia and nitrite that can be fed upon. After reading through your comments I saw someone had success figuring out nitrites with water changes, so I have done 3. The 2nd did get nitrites down to readable levels . We have well water, ph in the tank is 7.6, temp is 71.

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Ammonia first just means you wasted ammonia and Prime and subverted your nitrogen cycle. Use Prime to treat water before adding it to the tank, let it sit for a bit in a bucket to gas off any chlorine and settle any heavy metals. Then add it slowly, especially if it’s a big temperature difference between the fresh water and your tank, bacteria like steady temps. By slowly, I mean you don’t want more than a degree difference from added water. I would monitor both your nitrite and nitrate levels and see if they are moving at all, if they are not, something has caused your tank cycle to stall.

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You can grab a bottle of tetra safe start if you are having trouble, and giving it another week, testing daily. I am not using the pure liquid ammonia, I’m using fish food. Hands down the best way to cycle a tank quickly is with a filter from another aquarium. Failing that, a generous helping of gravel from another tank can help speed things up too. I might just try the strips first and go back to the other kit if it doesn’t work as well, there’s just all of these crazy warnings on the bottles, like genetic defects and stuff like that, yikes.

I can see that owning a fish is not a small investment as some people outside the hobby say. This is just my preferred method, allowing me to easily troubleshoot. Since nitrites have appeared, your cycle is well underway. In your case, I would continue doing what you are now, since you are comfortable with it. To the best of my knowledge, Phosphate as an additive does not have a correlation to nitrate spikes.

I feel like i have tried to read everything on the fishless cycle but i’m more than 14 days in and no signs of nitrites. You did the right thing with the water changes, now you should be able to observe whether the nitrite and nitrate levels are rising and make a better judgement as to how far along the cycle you actually are. I would definitely work on getting them back down. I agree with the daily water changes until you can read the levels, although if your nitrates are that high, it could indeed take a few days at least.

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After the reboot I added the plants to the setup. All the plants are thriving and 3 out of 9 bulbs have almost out-grown the established plants that I added. During this reboot I found out on day 7 that my ammonia was off the chart. I finally found a reliable way to read my tests.

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Indoor lighting can make color matching difficult and return incorrect results. Salt water cycling is a slightly different approach in that you would typically use live rock as part of the process. I’ve ordered a tank and Seachem’s Neutral regulator to dechlorinate the water prior to doing ammonia. Today, the nitrate is at 8.0, the nitrite is at 5.0, and the ammonia is at 0.15.

Petsmart and Petco are notorious for giving bad advice and should generally be avoided. When you say nitrates was off the charts, did you do a water change or three to get it back down? The sponge should go first, after the filter inlet. It sounds like you knew what to do all along and were just looking for reassurance. It all sounds hugely positive, just more waiting unfortunately.

Too my surprise it came back positive today April 16th at 5.0 PH is still 8.2 and has a tiny bit of cloudiness look to itbut not like it did before the ammonia I added. I’m terribly sorry to hear about your local fish store. It’s hard if you don’t have a local supplier you can trust. As for your Betta, if you don’t plan on keeping him in the smaller tank, then you are essentially performing a fish-in cycle in the small one and a fishless cycle in the large one.

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